If that works okay at the connection to the charge controller, I wonder why the pin terminal just an inch or so away needs an industrial-quality crimp job. The wire bundle is just jammed into a square hole, and a simple Phillips-head screw inside the controller gets turned, which narrows the metal contacts inside (flat metal surfaces) and clamps down on the bundle. If the binding of the pin-terminal to the wire bundle is that critical, it makes me wonder about where the bundle plugs into the charge controller. Too tight, you strip threads or crush/cut strands and again, overheat. Too loose and the wires loosen and overheat from poor contact. NO-OX-ID "A-Special" is the stuff you melt and dip the wire into before torque. The insulated splice blocks are the easiest way, with a dab of no-ox in the joint to protect the wires I've not used it for crimping, only have used the copper for crimping copper wire, you don't mix metals. Safest is the No-Oxid, warm the tub till it's liquid and dip the stripped wire in, then torque it down in the terminal. This is hands on learning, too little and it's useless, too much and it runs out and causes a short in 2 years. But carbon is this years buzzword, so it must be good. The Carbon I have no experience with and the numbers show it's not as conductive as silver or copper. I used that till it ran out, I now have the copper from McMaster Carr. Silver is used at power plants and substations to grease the double bolt threads and connection interfaces. There are several kinds of electrical grease, some are insulative, some are conductive. The wire will break before it pulls out of the shell. I also spent 35 years in aerospace using $2,000 crimpers that were calibrated every 6 months and I know what a good crimp is.Ī good crimp cold welds the wires to the shell, and leaves an uncrimped portion of the shell as a strain relief for the wire. With any approach, you need to make sure that the connection is both secure and safe from fingers, dropped tools, etc. Unfortunately, to use these, you either need a crimp tool or you need to be extremely good with improvising. The advantage of these is that they're small and cheap. For example Digikey, Allied, Newark and Mouser sell TE Connectivity / AMP 180599 pin terminals. These are crimp devices which go around the wire and have a straight pin on the end of a smaller diameter. Here's a photo of the 985-GP-03, courtesy Amazon:Īnother choice is to get "Pin Terminals". There are other Marathon products that would also work, but this is probably the simplest choice. You put the #8 wire in one end and the #10 or #12 in the other, and tighten the screws to the factory specified torque. Search Amazon or Newark Electronics for Marathon 985-GP. For example, Marathon 985-GP accepts from 4 gauge to 18 gauge and comes a few different models. You can get connector blocks that accept pairs of wires and connect them together.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |